Trip Planner · Living Document

Three weeks in Mexico

A premium culture-and-beach journey for Arne & Esther — November 2027. This page is the single home for the trip: what's decided, what's still open, and the information we need to make the next decision well.

Last updated 22 June 2026 · route & itinerary locked · lodging stage underway

The trip we're picturing

A three-week trip to Mexico in November 2027, premium throughout, built on a deliberate rhythm: a culture-rich journey through Mexico's pre-Columbian heritage first, finishing with a relaxed stay on the Caribbean coast. A small number of bases, private transfers and guides, and long-haul flights in First Class. The flights arrive into and depart from Mexico City, so the trip opens and closes there.

How this document works: the sections below hold the settled decisions and the still-open ones. The route is now locked, leg by leg, and the full 22-day day-by-day itinerary sits alongside. The live work now is the lodging stage — choosing the hotels at each base.

Decisions settled

Agreed between Arne and Esther, and not in question unless something changes.

Timing
4–25 November 2027
22 days, Thu–Thu. Peak weather, low crowds; beach leg falls in the second half of the month, clear of hurricane season.
Budget
~CHF 25,000
Excluding long-haul flights. A working estimate, not a hard cap — willing to flex if the trip warrants it.
Culture focus
Pre-Columbian
The ancient civilisations — Aztec, Maya — rather than colonial-era Mexico.
Gateway
Mexico City, in & out
Long-haul lands and departs here; there is no Zurich non-stop, so one connection through a German hub on Lufthansa.
Cultural route
Shape 3 — with Palenque
Central Mexico → Palenque (Chiapas) → Yucatán → Caribbean. Oaxaca was weighed and set aside; Palenque was the deciding draw.
Día de los Muertos
Not built around it
Arriving after 2 November — a calmer, normally-priced Mexico City. See the decision brief.
Beach half
Caribbean coast
Warm, swimmable water in November; pairs naturally with the Maya sites. Exact resort being chosen now — see the beach & lodging brief.
Pace & comfort
Few bases, settle in
Esther prefers not to climb (heights); altitude is no issue. Three weeks away is feasible.

Open decision points

What still needs deciding — with the live one flagged.

Deciding now

Beach & lodging — the resorts and hotels for the trip

The route is locked. Next the lodging at each base — the Mexico City hotel, the Palenque jungle lodge, the Calakmul gateway, the Campeche overnight, the Mérida hacienda, and the Caribbean beach resort — needs to be chosen. The Caribbean resort is the headline pick.

The Caribbean beach base is now in progress. The brief sets one filter — small, secluded, understated, away from the resort clusters — and a cross-checked shortlist points to Jashita (Soliman Bay) as the leaning pick, with Hotel Esencia the grander alternative and Casa Chablé in Sian Ka'an as an optional seclusion add-on. See the full Caribbean beach & lodging decision brief.

The other five bases — Mexico City, Palenque, the Calakmul gateway, Campeche and Mérida — are worked up in the lodging decision brief: lead picks are the Park Hyatt (CDMX), Quinta Chanabnal (Palenque), Río Bec Dreams (Calakmul), Hacienda Puerta Campeche, and Hacienda Xcanatún or Chablé Yucatán (Mérida).

Not yet open
Activities & reservations — guides, excursions Booking — flights first (award window opens ~Nov 2026)

The planning roadmap

Where we are in the process.

01 · done
Vision
02 · done
Timing & framing
03 · done
Cultural route
04 · done
Route & pacing
05 · now
Beach & lodging
06
Activities
07
Booking

The route

The cultural route is decided: Shape 3, the one that includes Palenque. Two leaner shapes were considered — a version with only Central Mexico and the Yucatán, and a version adding Oaxaca instead — and both were set aside. Palenque was the deciding draw. The journey runs Mexico City → Palenque → the Yucatán → the Caribbean, then back to Mexico City to fly home.

The chosen route

Central Mexico → Palenque → Yucatán → Caribbean beach
Oaxaca (not on this route) 1 Mexico City 2 Palenque 3 Yucatán / Maya sites 4 Caribbean return to Mexico City to fly home

The route, leg by leg

The locked itinerary — Shape C, the drive with Calakmul. 22 days, 21 nights, arriving Thursday 4 November and departing Thursday 25 November 2027.

4nights

Mexico City

Arrive in the evening off the German-hub connection, then three full, active days for the great pre-Columbian draws: the Museo Nacional de Antropología, Teotihuacan, and the Templo Mayor with the historic centre.

↓  Fly Mexico City → Villahermosa, then a private transfer (~2–2½ hrs) into the jungle
2nights

Palenque · Chiapas

One of the most beautiful Maya cities there is, set against jungle hills. A full day at the site itself, then onward into the Selva Maya.

↓  Drive east on Federal 186 into the biosphere reserve (~5 hrs)
2nights

Calakmul · the Selva Maya

A jungle lodge on the edge of the largest tropical-forest reserve in Mexico, with a full day at the great Maya superpower city — climbable canopy-top temples, howler monkeys, almost no other visitors.

↓  Drive Calakmul → Edzná stop → Campeche (~5 hrs)
1night

Campeche · sleep only

Edzná en route (the “Building of Five Levels”), overnight in colonial Campeche city, no touring — just a comfortable stop before continuing north to Mérida.

↓  Drive Campeche → Mérida (~2½ hrs)
4nights

Mérida & the Yucatán

An excursions hub from a hacienda base — Uxmal and the Puuc route, the sacred Maya cenotes at Homún or Cuzamá, and Celestún's pink flamingos by small boat. Mérida-the-city is colonial and outside this trip's focus; the city itself isn't where the days are spent.

↓  Transfer east across the peninsula, visiting Chichén Itzá early
7nights

The Caribbean coast

The beach finale on the Riviera Maya — pure relaxation. Optional half-day Tulum and Cobá visits within reach. The exact hotel is being chosen now — small and secluded over big-resort, with Jashita leaning; see the beach & lodging brief.

↓  Fly Cancún → Mexico City
1night

Mexico City

One final night before the First Class flight home — deliberately an overnight, not a risky same-day connection onto the long-haul.

21 nights in all, 4 / 2 / 2 / 1 / 4 / 7 / 1; trip runs Thu 4 Nov → Thu 25 Nov 2027.

All resolved

Sub-decisions along the route — settled

All the finer points along the route are now decided:

  • DecidedBonampak & Yaxchilán — skipping them; Palenque will stand on its own. See the decision brief.
  • DecidedCrossing to the Yucatán — Shape C, the drive with Calakmul. Palenque → Calakmul jungle gateway (two nights) → Campeche (sleep only) → Mérida, picking up Edzná along the way. The Misol-Ha / Agua Azul waterfalls and Ek' Balam are both also being skipped. See the decision brief.
  • DecidedThe night split — settled at 4 / 2 / 2 / 1 / 4 / 7 / 1 (CDMX / Palenque / Calakmul / Campeche / Mérida / Caribbean / CDMX). Trip runs Thu 4 Nov → Thu 25 Nov 2027.

The sites, region by region

A reference digest of what the route takes in — the pre-Columbian sites along the way, with photos, film and further reading a click away.

Central Mexico — the start

The Aztec capital, the colossal city of Teotihuacan, and the museum that makes sense of all of it.

Teotihuacan

~1 hour from Mexico City

A vast ancient metropolis built by a civilisation whose name we still don't know — already a thousand years old and long abandoned when the Aztecs found it and called it “the place where the gods were created”. You walk the two-kilometre Avenue of the Dead between the Pyramid of the Sun, one of the largest structures of the ancient world, and the Pyramid of the Moon, with the carved Temple of the Feathered Serpent at the far end. The sheer scale is what photographs never quite carry.

The visit: half a day, open and exposed, with a lot of flat walking. Climbing the pyramids is currently restricted — so the experience is at ground level for both of you, and heights aren't a factor.

Templo Mayor & the National Museum of Anthropology

In Mexico City

Two halves of one experience. The Templo Mayor is the great temple of the Aztec capital, excavated out of the centre of the modern city — you look down into the layers of the pyramid and the offerings buried within it, with an excellent museum alongside. The Museo Nacional de Antropología is, quite simply, the finest museum of ancient American civilisation in the world: the Aztec Sun Stone, the great Maya halls, the colossal Olmec heads. Seeing it early reframes everything you visit afterwards.

The visit: a full, rich day in the city. All street-level and indoors — easy walking, no heights, and climate-controlled in the museum.

Also within reach if you want more: the Great Pyramid of Cholula (the largest pyramid by volume in the world) near Puebla, the Toltec capital of Tula, and the hilltop site of Xochicalco. Early November here is Día de los Muertos — the trip deliberately arrives just after it, sidestepping the crowds; see the decision brief.

Chiapas — Palenque

For many travellers the single most beautiful Maya site there is, set deep in jungle highlands.

Palenque

Chiapas state — jungle highlands

Palenque is Maya architecture at its most refined, set against jungle-covered hills with waterfalls nearby and the sound of howler monkeys carrying across the ruins. The Temple of the Inscriptions holds the tomb of the great king Pakal; the Palace has a tower unlike anything else in the Maya world; the carving and stucco work is exquisite. Deeper in lie Bonampak, with the most vivid surviving ancient murals in the Americas, and Yaxchilán, reached by river boat — both considered, but set aside in favour of letting Palenque stand on its own.

The visit: a full day at Palenque; the outlying sites are remote excursions of their own. Humid jungle heat, mostly shaded walking, with gentle climbs you can take or skip.

Bonampak is famous for one thing — three rooms of vividly preserved Maya wall paintings, the most complete that survive anywhere. Yaxchilán is a major city on a bend of the Usumacinta River, reached only by boat. Both are remarkable, but the trip is skipping them — see the decision brief for the reasoning.

The Yucatán — the Maya world

The lead-in to the Caribbean beach. Limestone cities in low forest, carved façades, sky-watching towers.

Chichén Itzá

Yucatán state

The most famous Maya city, and famous for good reason: the perfectly proportioned pyramid of El Castillo, the largest ball court in the ancient Americas, and the round Caracol observatory. It is also the most visited site in the Maya world, so it rewards an early start with a private guide, before the day-trip buses arrive.

The visit: half a day, hot and largely shadeless — a morning is strongly advised. Climbing El Castillo is not permitted, so it's a comfortable ground-level visit for both of you. It sits on the road east, so it works well as a stop on the transfer to the beach.

Uxmal

Yucatán state, near Mérida

To many eyes the most beautiful Maya site of all, and far quieter than Chichén Itzá. Uxmal is the masterpiece of the Puuc style — intricate stone latticework, the long low Nunnery Quadrangle, the unusual rounded Pyramid of the Magician — and nearby is a string of smaller Puuc sites you can almost have to yourselves.

The visit: half a day; hot, with some gentle slopes. Climbing is not permitted on the main pyramid — comfortable for both of you at ground level.

Calakmul

Campeche state — deep in the forest

For something extraordinary: a colossal Maya superpower city buried deep in the largest tropical forest reserve in Mexico, far from everything and almost empty of visitors. Howler monkeys, toucans, the occasional ocelot; temples rising straight out of the canopy. Reaching it is a commitment — but it is the closest thing there is to discovering a lost city. Calakmul is included via the chosen Shape C crossing: two nights at a jungle lodge nearby, with a full day at the site itself.

The visit: a long day with a real drive in. Here you can still climb the great temples — so this is a place where Arne could go up for the view over the canopy while Esther enjoys the forest and plazas below.

Also in the region: Ek' Balam (a small Maya site with a remarkable stucco frieze and a still-climbable acropolis — considered but set aside in favour of the cenotes and Celestún for the four Mérida days), the cliff-top ruins of Tulum above the Caribbean and the jungle site of Cobá (both within half-day reach of the beach resort if you'd like one more Maya stop there). Mérida itself is the natural base for these — the city's own draws are largely colonial and outside this trip's focus.

Parking lot

Ideas raised out of sequence, kept here and tagged with the stage where they belong — so nothing is lost, and each is picked up at the right moment.

For the Booking stage

Lufthansa Allegris First Class. When the November 2027 schedule and award window open (~November 2026), check which aircraft is assigned to the Frankfurt/Munich–Mexico City leg. The new Allegris First Class flies on the A350 (and, from 2027, the Boeing 777-9); routing via Munich — its First Class hub — improves the odds.

Open items to keep on the radar

Check the Miles & More mileage balance — two First Class long-haul awards are needed, and award space is the scarcest part of the plan. And note any birthday or anniversary in the November 2027 window worth a special evening.

Resolved: the Día de los Muertos question — raised here during the timing discussion — is now decided (the trip arrives just after the holiday) and has moved up to “Decisions settled”.